Monday, January 10, 2011

Visit to Puri, Konark and Bhubaneswar - Part III

Sun Temple at Konark

Amazing stone carving at Konark
After having our lunch on Dec 26th, drove to Konark (65 Kilometers from Bhubaneswar), to visit the Sun Temple. 13th-century Sun Temple is also known as the Black Pagoda. The temple is one of the most well renowned temples in India and is a World Heritage Site. The temple takes the form of the chariot of Surya, the sun god, and is heavily decorated with stone carving. The entire complex was designed in the form of a huge chariot drawn by seven spirited horses on twelve pairs of exquisitely decorated wheels.


After our Sun temple visit, we had an option of either visiting the beautiful beach at Konark or go for local shopping. Beach is about 3 Kilometers and it one of the most clean and beautiful beaches of India. The guide mentioned that it is a delightful beach which is a pleasure haunt for tourists visiting Orissa, but advised against swimming as currents can be strong.

Instead of beach, we opted for shopping and the best way to enjoy shopping in Konark was to take a leisurely stroll through the markets which is near the temple complex. Souvenir options includes miniature stone sculptures, wood carvings, sea shell items, beautifully embroidered umbrellas (attracted me the most). One other place suggested for shopping in Konark is the Government run emporiums. Relish the local delicacies fish fry prepared in Bengali-style if possible.

After shopping for few hours, drove back to Bhubaneswar for the night stay. Most tourist prefer staying either in Puri or Bhuaneswar even though Konark provides decent lodging facilities.

Sun Temple at Konark
Early morning on Dec 27th, drove to Cuttack, one of the oldest cities of Orissa. We took a dip in the River Mahanadi before visiting the Aishwarya Ganesh Murugan Temple, which is very close to Cuttack Barabati Cricket Stadium. Next we visited the famous Chandi Temple on the Chandi Road (Near Baramunda Bus stand) In the evening we visited Praja Devi or Biraja Devi temple in Jajpur. Jajpur is about 130 Kms from Bhubaneswar and once the capital of Orissa. This temple is also referred as Navi gaya. It is one of the 51 Shakthi Peetam. This temple was build in the 13th Century. After having our dinner at Jajpur, drove back to Bhubaneswar.

Like to share the two unpleasant experiences too. One on our way back from Jajpur to Bhubaneswar, the vehicle broke down and we were stranded on the road for 3 hours. Second was at the Bhubaneswar railway station when we had to take the Coromandel express train to Chennai the next day morning. We reached the railway station 1 hour in advance. We were waiting at Platform 4 as suggested by the railway authorities. Thanks to the railway authorities, they have to divert our train to Platform 3 at the eleventh hour and we (25 members - most of them are above 50 years old) were made to  run from one platform to the other as our train was approaching the station. We knew, train stops only for 5 minutes at Bhubaneswar station, so it was one of the most exciting 5 minutes.  Luckily all of us boarded the train and the ordeal came to an end.

Magnificent Wheel around Sun Temple

Carving on the Wheel
Special Thanks to D. Anuradha, ( a lawyer by profession), who put extra efforts and  arranged excellent tour for a small fee. She can be reached at 9445232661. She arranges food, accommodation and train tickets for all the tours she undertakes. The cost of this Orissa tour worked out to be Rs. 5500 per person.



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Visit to Puri, Konark and Bhubaneswar : Part II


Shanti Stupa at Dhaulagiri

Christmas 2010 was action packed day for me. On 25th morning first visited Dhaulagiri followed by a visit to Udayagiri and Khandagiri, which are  reminiscent of influence of Buddhism and Jainism in Orissa. 


Dhauli hill (9 Kilometer from Bhubaneshwar) holds the distinction of being the place where Emperor Ashoka renounced war and embraced Buddhism. One can visit Emperor Asoka pillar - Shanti Stupa (a monument dedicated to world peace) at Dhaulagiri. 


Udayagiri and Khandagiri (5 Kilometer from Bhubaneshwar) face each other across the road. They have a number of carved caves. It is believed that most of these caves were carved out as huge residential blocks for the Jain monks. Generally caves are single storied but one could see a few of them in Udayagiri as double storied also.  One require little bit of stamina to climb the small hill ( Udayagiri and Khandagiri), but it is worth to put that little effort if you are physically fit. If you are above 60 years or have trouble in walking in unpaved paths, better avoid this place. 
Lingaraj Temple


Lingaraj Temple
Once back to Bhubaneswar, in the evening visited Lingaraj temple and Sri Tridandi Gaudiya Math (which is near the Lingaraj temple on the Kapilswar Road). The temple of Lingaraja, the biggest of all at Bhubaneswar is more than 1000 years old, dating back in its present form to the last decade of the eleventh century, though there is evidence that parts of the temple have been there since sixth century AD. In the elegance of its proportions and the richness of its surface-treatment, it is one of the most finished and refined manifestation of temple architecture in India



On Dec 26th morning visited few more temples in Bhubaneswar. Though the list below seems endless, one could visit most of it  in a short time as they are  located very close to each other. It was so close that we ended up in walking to all the temples rather than useing the vehicle, which we have hired for the purpose.



Parasurameswar Temple Carvings
* 7th century, Parasurameswar Temple, small but lavishly decorated temple.  One visit to this temple makes you wonder about the skills and effort one must has put to create such a master piece.


* Brahmeshwar Temple is a fine specimen of innovative and mature Orissan style of temple building. The sculptural details stands testimony of the expert workmanship of the Orissan artists of the era.


Parasurameswar Temple


* 10th century Mukteswar & Siddheshvara Temples.


* Kedar Gouri Temple – Dedicated to Lord Siva (who is also called the Kedareswar) and Goddess Gouri. The temple is situated within the same premises next to the Mukteswar Temple


* 11th century Rajarani Temple dedicated to Lord Brahma.


* 12th century  Ananta Vasudeva Temple, only important Vaishnava temple standing in Bhubaneswar, Unfortunately, much of the carvings has worn out due to the softness of the stone.




Mukteswar Temple


Will share my Konark (the Sun Temple) experience in Part III.



Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Visit to Puri, Konark and Bhubaneswar - Part I

Puri Temple : Singadwara  
During Christmas holiday season (2010), visited Orissa along with 25 others. It was no wonder that Orissa is often referred as the museum of India's sculptural and artistic heritage. I have no doubts after my visit that the temples and monuments of Orissa are among the most magnificent gems of religious architecture the world has ever produced. I am not sure which one impressed me the most : The magnificent Sun Temple at Konark or the majestic temple of Lord Jagannath at Puri, which is also renowned for the spectacular Rath Yatra chariot festival or the glorious temples of Bhubaneswar.

We stayed at Sidhi Mandap (Near Kedar Gauri Temple), Old Town, Bhubaneswar-2 for a period of 4 days, and visited Puri, Konark and Cuttack as per the schedule below. Bhubaneswar is well connected both by Air and Road and Rail from all major Indian cities like Chennai, Visakhapatnam and Calcutta. We opted for the train journey from Chennai to Orissa  and then hired van for the next 4 days to cover the places in Orissa. It is not advisable to bet on state bus services for your local visits as they are poor and often uncomfortable. Plenty of Auto rickshaws and taxis are there for roaming around in the city if you prefer to hop-in and out instead of engaging a vehicle for the whole day.

Golden Triangle of East India
Orissa Tour Schedule: 
22nd – On board Pondicherry-Bhubaneswar Express   from Chennai (10 P.M).
23rd – Day long train journey, reached Bhubaneswar at 8 P.M
24th – Visit Puri
25th – Visit around Bhubaneswar
26th – Visit Konark
27th – Visit Cuttack
28th – On board Coromandel Express at Bhubaneswar
(6.20 A.M)
29th – Reached Chennai at 4 A.M


Lord Jagannath
Our first place of visit was Puri. On Dec 24th morning, drove to Puri (60 Kms), and visited Lord Jagannath temple (build in 12th century). The temple is dedicated to Lord Krishna. The  temple has four gates facing the east, west, south and north directions and are respectively called Lions Gate, Horse Gate, Tiger Gate and the Elephant Gate. We entered the temple though Singadwara (Lion Gate) and offered our prayers to Krishna. Then visited the numerous smaller temples and shrines which are within the temple complex. The temple of Mahalakshmi has an important role in rituals of the main temple. It is said that preparation of naivedya as offering for Jagannath is supervised by Goddess Mahalakshmi.  Two important shrines not to be missed at any cost are Narasimha and Vimala Devi. This temple is also referred as Padha gaya or as one of Shakthi Peetam. Narasimha is exactly behind Lord Jagannath and you need to climb few narrow steps to have the darshan. Also do take time to visit the Mukti Mandapa or Pillared hall on raised platforms within the temple complex meant for religious congregations. The Kanchi Ganesh Temple is dedicated to Lord Ganesh is also another notable shrine. Tradition says the King of Kanchipuram gifted the  Ganesh idol.

Puri Temple
Since we visited in the month of December, we weren't fortunate to see the Puri Rath Yatra. Orissa state comes in to a lime light in the month of June-July because of Jagannath Rath Yatra. People from all across Orrisa and from various parts of India come to take part in this auspicious occasion. It is a well know fact that Orissa  receives by nearly 8 - 10 lakh pilgrims during this famous festival.

Night View of Puri Beach
The local guide mentioned that non-Hindus are not allowed inside the temple, but they can view the temple proceedings from the flat roof of the nearby  Raghunandan Library. He also added that one has to pay a small fee (Rs. 10 or Rs. 20) to climb up the roof.

Finally in the evening after  visiting to beautiful Puri beach we decided to return back to Bhubaneshwar. While you are in  the Beach, one could undertake elephant, camel or horse rides for fun.

Check out http://www.jagannatha.net/puri.html for some more information about Puri. Will post my Bhubaneswar (Part II) and Konark(Part III) experience in few days.

Note for Shoppers:
From Bhubaneswar if you travel 20 Kms towards Puri/Konark, there is a place known as Pipili. Pipili is famous for patching cloth design locally known as Chandua. Do take time for shopping in Pipili if you ever visit Bhubaneswar.