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| Himalayan Village Women |
There are few events which you can classify as once in a life time opportunities. In my opinion trekking in Himalayan mountain belongs to this category. So when I had chance of join 25 others for a 10 day long trekking in Himalayas (Panchachuli Base Camp), I didn’t think twice. I signed up for it, not knowing what to expect as it was my maiden journey to Himalayas a well as the longest trekking adventure, I ever undertook with a new group of enthusiast trekkers.
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| Kathgodam, Uttarakhand |
All I know, about Panchachuli Base Camp trek is that it goes up to Darma Valley located near the borders of Nepal and Tibet, It belonged to Pithoragarh district of Uttarakhand, and an area of outstanding beauty and of significance to anthropologists. However I was sure about one thing that, it is going to be a memorable trip.
Designated starting point for the trek was Kathgodam Railway Station in Uttarakhand. I started off from Chennai by Chennai-New Delhi train on 23th April morning (Rajathani Express) to reach Delhi on 24th afternoon and then another train from Delhi to Kathgodam on 24th April night (Ranikhet Express) to reach Kathgodam early morning on 25th .
From there our guardian for the next 10 days - Pulse Racer (http://www.pulseracer.com/ - Contact person: Kriti), decided every bit of activity/event. Given below is the schedule which we followed for the next 10 days. Those 10 days were unbelievably true. As with all happy events, our trek also came to end on 4th May and I took the same Ranikhet Express from Kathgodam to Delhi and on 5th May Rajathani Express to Chennai from Delhi.
Itinerary (Kathgodam to Kathgodam – 10 days)
Day one, a mini bus exclusively hired for our group by Pulse Racer arrived in the early hours.We started our journey after having a nice breakfast at Kathgodam towards Patal Bhuneshwar located at a distance of 200 km. Reached Patal Bhuneshwar (our first night stay - transit camp) around 4 p.m in evening. At Patal Bhuneshwar, we visited the sub-terranean shrine of lord Shiva with sprawling interiors located at 150 Feet below the ground level. Here Limestone rock formations have created various spectacular stalactite and stalagmite figures. The way to the cave temple is by a long and narrow tunnel. It was a wonderful experience although frightening to start with.
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| Nepal from the Indian Side - Kali River |
On day two we continued our onward bus journey to Dharchula located at a distance of 140 km which passes through Pithogarh/Sheraghat. Reached at Hotel in Dharchula (our second night stay camp) in the evening. At Dharchula we crossed over River Kali to Nepal, did some shopping and was back at hotel overlooking river Kali for the dinner. As India and Nepal has some kind of agreement, there are no visa/passport rituals to go through except the 6 P.M deadline. As the bridge is open only during day time and people has to wait till next day morning to cross if one ever misses the deadline. After a nice dinner, I went to bed early as we are told this is the last day to enjoy a good sleep on comfortable beds and noisy urban surroundings. For the next one week there will be no bed, no TV, no news papers or bed coffee and mostly no one else to talk to or smile at, other than your trek mates. You, rucksack and the silence is going to the new world.
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| Slate stone house in Bogling village |
On day three, five chartered Jeeps were arranged by Pulse Racer for onward journey. we started off after having a nice breakfast at Dharchula towards Sobla/ Dar , located at a distance of 32 km. At Dar we had our first taste of mountain trek to Bogling located at a distance of 6 km . We have to carry our rucksack (Weigh about 9 kilograms) on our back from now onwards. Night stay at Bogling was in village houses, which was built using hard stones and wood. The roof has been built using slate stones or grass or any other locally available material. Most of the inside walls and floors were made up of mud. This type of construction seems to be very effective in keeping the cold away and protects one from wind.
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| Trek Trail |
On day four, we woke up at 5 A.M and had the first taste of Himalayan chillness, when we tried to wash our face. Had our breakfast and stared off our 7 km trek to Sela around 7 A.M. It was on this day when everyone of us came to understand that in mountains, the distances are not measured not in meters but in hours!! This 7 km trek took 5 hours for us. I was ready to hit the bed right away - dame I forgot! - No beds anymore and all I have is sleeping bag & ground mat, which I carried along with the rucksack.
In the evening we spend time with the locals of Sela village. They make their living raising sheep, cows and yaks for dairy products. They cultivate rajma and vegetables. Horticulture: walnut and plums. Their story about Kheeda Ghas and a demonstration of spinning rabbit wool amazed me the most. We also visited the village temple. People were predominantly Hindus but highly influenced by Tibetan culture. They worship natural features as abode of God.
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| View of Himalayas |
On day five, Trek to Baling located at a distance of 12 km, was a eventful day on my life . After 6-7 km of trekking, I was totally exhausted and dehydrated. I was on the verge of collapse (literally). It was the only time during the entire trip, I felt that this Himalayan trekking is not for me. However with God's grace I could manage the situation with the timely help offered by Darban Singh, (mighty helper part of Pulse Racer) who carried the racksack thereafter to Baling. God only knows what happened after dinner as I slept as if there are no more nights. But the next day morning, woke up fresh and was ready as everyone else to roll on.
On day six we trekked to Son/Duktu located at a distance of 6 km. This was a pleasant one. I felt that my body got acclimatized well to the new environment. Visited the post office (3260 m above the sea level) on the Indian soil in Duktu, which is the last one on Indian soil. Had my dinner around the camp fire and that was the thing I remember last, for the day.
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| Panchachuli Glacier |
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| Panchachuli Peak One out of Five |
On day seven, at 5.30 A.M we had hot tea and biscuits and started off towards Panchachuli Base Camp & Glacier (our final destination point - Nyalphu located at 4 km - 3500m above the sea level). Since the location experienced heavy showers on the previous night, we decided to trek as near as possible to the snow-line and did not set any fixed destination point. Finally when we saw the Panchachuli the five summit, which was believed to be the five cooking pots on which the Pandavas cooked their last meal on their way to heaven) we were thrilled. The Panchchuli Peaks in the towering glory is truly majestic.
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| Trek Trial View |
Once again when we were back at Duktu village, had a chance to meet local villagers, who showed a place where they had buried potatoes and other provisions in the winter before moving down to Dharchula. Their family (along with the entire village) has the habit of shifting to Dharchula (November to April) to avoid the freezing climate during winter every year. These potatoes and provisions will be sufficient for them to sustain for a few months, by which time they will be able to raise crops and generate income from other sources like cattle breeding. Though living in a remote Himalayan valley and are migratory by nature, these people, are quite literate and far from being primitive. After 6 km trek, returned back to Baling for the night stay.
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| Family of Sela village |
On day eight, we trekked back to Sela passing through Nagling downhill covering a distance of 12 km. Downhill trekking was comparatively easy than the climb. On our way we met an Army General along with his patrol team ,who are carrying out their usual rounds. We took time to get to know them. Although it lasted only a few minutes. We were able to see how hard it is to perform their duties, to make us feel safe and secure.
On day nine, we were back at Dar covering 12 km on foot, followed by trip to Dharchula by Jeep. We Spent the night at hotel room once again.
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| Grass roof house - Bogling village |
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The village where we stayed
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| Entire Trek Group |
On day ten, we started our journey around 5 A.M and traveled (320 km) the entire day in the mini bus with stops for breakfast and lunch. Reached Kathgodam, had our dinner 7.30 P.M at Udipi Hotel (believe me Udipi vegetarian hotel serving all the south Indian food including idili, sambar, poori and all varieties of dosa is there), before starting our return journey by Ranikhet express to Delhi at 8.40 PM.
This challenging trek went through the remote border villages giving me an opportunity to observe the lifestyle, customs and culture of the natives. The trek area touched the inner zones inhabited by semi-Mongolian people called Bhutias and offered a panoramic and enchanting beauty. A truly unforgettable experience.
Quick Facts:
| Trek: | Panchachuli Glacier |
| Route: | The route to the glacier abounds in exotic scenery, snowcapped mountains, gushing streams, alpine meadows and a rich variety of flora and fauna. |
| Duration: | 10 days (Kathgodam to Kathgodam) |
| Expected Cost: | Rupees 10,000 per person (including Houses/Tent and food) |
| Best Period: | May-June & September-October |
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| Trail View: Snow caped Mountains |
